It’s no doubt that the Howe Ridge Fire burning on the northwest side of Lake McDonald, and the accompanying closure of the Lake McDonald Lodge and Going-to-the-Sun Road, has put a real damper on the usual Glacier NP activities this summer. But, we just spent a fantastic weekend in StepsAway’s big cabin (StepsAway 244) and proved that there is so much to do in and around the Park, the fire is no reason to stay away.
We named the cabins “Steps Away” (StepsAway 254 and StepsAway 244) because they are literally (used correctly!) only steps away from both the entrance to Glacier National Park and the businesses of West Glacier Village. Saturday night we decided to reconfirm our naming convention with a walking tour of food and beverage options.
A five minute walk took us across US Highway 2 to the Belton Chalet. The Belton Chalet is famous for the historic building AND their restaurant. Knowing that we were going to make several stops, we enjoyed an appetizer, a round of delicious drinks and split a dessert! Hard to say no to creme brûlée – especially when our old friend Alex (ok, we met him once back on Memorial Day Weekend – see “political activist” in Friday Night Bear and Beers post) picked up the dessert tab!
Across a side street also along Hwy 2, we popped into the Glacier Highland Resort Restaurant. This is much more of a family-style eatery with good grub – specializing in pies! We each had a satisfying small meal and a draught (well, I had a draught) while admiring the view – the Belton (West Glacier) Amtrak Station is right across the highway.
Well, it’s not really a Saturday night without a stop at Freda’s! On the way over though, we realized that we had never gone in the West Glacier Camp Store. It has a whole different selection of Glacier-oriented gifts oriented more toward, well camping.
Freda’s is the historic West Glacier Village bar. We were lucky – our favorite bartender Al had the evening shift! A couple rounds, new friends – including a honeymooning couple from North Dakota, a Romanian waitress from the previous stop, and a Local (!) – and fun conversations made for a memorable Saturday night. Another 100 yards affirmed it – yep, StepsAway!
We approached Sunday a bit differently. We decided to take the dogs with us for a drive up to the Canadian border. This is one of our favorite spots. It’s quiet. It’s remote. And, although you cut through the Park on Camas Road, it’s actually not in GNP, but you can see it across the river.
Here we seldom see anyone. The border crossing is closed but there’s a boat launch area for floating the North Fork of the Flathead River. The temptation to step across the border illegally(!) is, according to Robert
Palmer, simply irresistible! At this time of the year, the dogs enjoy wading into the cool, fresh Canadian runoff. For some reason, sitting on incredibly hard, uncomfortable boulders gazing into the clear water while searching through the uncountable rocks for no real reason at all is something we always look forward to.
Being that the cabin is a short, very rural drive away, we allowed ourselves to be drawn into another of our favorite spots on the return trip – Polebridge. This “town” consists of a few cabins, the world famous Mercantile and the Northern Lights Saloon. We had missed the Labor Day festivities the night before, but honestly an uncrowded Northern Lights Saloon picnic table on a 70 degree, Dickey Betts’ Blue Sky Sunday afternoon with Huckleberry Margaritas served in Mason jars is like making time stand still. It’s always hard for me to leave that place…
I think this time I was promised that we could stop at Home Ranch Bottoms for some food. This is an oddly relaxing establishment along the North Fork Road. Part bar, part restaurant, part gift store, part campground… it sits on a beautiful flat section of land (the Bottoms no doubt) surrounded by forests. Here we can let the dogs introduce themselves to the other dogs – there are always other dogs – grab some decent BBQ wings and ribs, and meet more happy people who love this part of Montana as much as we do.
All this adventure and we were back at StepsAway in time to give the pups their late dinner and sneak in a nap before bedtime!
Great blog! You make me want to visit and I live here! Great to see you both.
Thanks Hutson!
Next visit North we have to go to Pole Bridge!